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> Distributor Concerns on my 1.7
Literati914
post Feb 2 2025, 12:43 PM
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This electronic points replacement unit was installed on my 1.7 when the engine was rebuilt, just before I got the car (engine never started or reinstalled at that point). Now the engine is in (5 years later) and I’m getting ready to try to fire it up for the first time. I’ve turned my attention to the distributor and since I have no experience with these electronic inserts and no installation instructions or paperwork, would first like to know if anyone recognizes this particular unit? - it’s red and I’m only seeing black ones on type 4 when searching. And is there any glaring mistakes that you guys see to the installation?


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Literati914
post Feb 2 2025, 12:48 PM
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This ballast resistor was amongst a box of parts that came with the car, but not installed.. so I’m wondering why not (aren’t they recommended/necessary?).. if so, I’m not seeing a real convenient place to mount it, where are you guy installing these (I did a search for pics)?


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Superhawk996
post Feb 2 2025, 01:07 PM
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I don’t recognize the electronic ignition and can’t comment on that.

Regarding ballast resistor, measure the primary side of the coil you intend to use. Should be around 3-4 ohms. If it has an internal ballast resistor don’t use the external resistor.

Using a coil with too low of primary resistance will burn points or will destroy an electronic ignition.

Here are the Pertronix instructions as an example:

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Literati914
post Feb 2 2025, 01:23 PM
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OK thanks.. there is currently a Beru Germany ZS 172 installed which is described as having an internal resistor and being a direct replacement for Bosch Blue coil (I have a couple of those packed away too I believe). I will check the resistance on this one.
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Literati914
post Feb 2 2025, 02:17 PM
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Note: in that first pic there is a random loose female spade terminal.. not sure if anyone noticed but I fished it out in case anyone was wondering (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

So my Beru measure 3.3-3.4 ohms, 3.3 is spec so I suppose it’s good to go - will not be installed the ballast resistor.

Interestingly @Superhawk996 posted documentation for the Flamethrower brand of distributor… well I also have one of those (an SVDA model) and was wondering..is there an advantage over what’s currently installed in my distributor? Would you guys pull the stock unit and installl the flamethrower?


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914sgofast2
post Feb 2 2025, 04:05 PM
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I f you are still running the Djet fuel injection system, I don't think the Flamethrower distributor will work, as it has no provision for operating the separate fuel injector points contained in the stock Bosch Djet style distributor. The Flamethrower will probably only work with your engine if you are running duel carbs, instead of the Djet FI system.
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emerygt350
post Feb 2 2025, 07:07 PM
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Or a single carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif). I don't think you will hurt much giving it a go. As long as the coil is in spec. Eventually if you don't like it's performance I would switch to a 123ignition. If you have fuel injection it's a whole different story, and it ends with a 123 as well.
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Literati914
post Feb 2 2025, 09:03 PM
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QUOTE(914sgofast2 @ Feb 2 2025, 04:05 PM) *

.. The Flamethrower will probably only work with your engine if you are running duel carbs, instead of the Djet FI system.


Thanks - I have another type4, a 'GA' based 2056 that came with dual Italian Weber 40IDF's .. but it has stock points. Now that you mention it, I think that's why I bought this Flamethrower to begin with. Back before I'd worked out a plan for which engine I'd be installing in which project car.
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Literati914
post Feb 3 2025, 09:15 AM
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So, am I correct in thinking that the electronic points replacement unit ^ also eliminates the need for a condensor?
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technicalninja
post Feb 3 2025, 09:39 AM
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Yes, it does not use the condenser.

When I've installed optical or mag based points replacement like yours I've almost always installed a CDI box as well.

I sort of see those as two parts of a whole.

In the past the CDI box was also the thing that set rpm limits as well.

Some of the fancier CDI boxes had timing adjusters in them.

Most common of these pups were a reduce timing when XXX happens for boost or N02 applications.

These were crude and similar to what the 123 can do.

Now days the EFI stand alone can whip the shit out of the CDI box as it can control timing VERY accurately and do the boost/nitrous retards as SOP.

In today's world I'd chose a full-on stand alone to just do ignition duties over an old school ignitor and CDI box.

The modern way eliminates the distributor completely and allows waste spark or COP.
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