Greetings all...
As the title suggests, I'm undertaking a six cylinder heart transplant on my four cylinder '74 914. I've always wanted to build a hot rod of some sort, and a 3.X 914 seems a pretty solid choice. I just hope the patient and donor organ both survive the surgery...
The motor is a 3.0L out of an '82 SC. It needs rebuilding. I'm going to start a separate thread for that over on the Pelican forum in the engine rebuilding section, because I'm going to need lot's of advice. I realize that there are plenty of peops here who've built sixes, but as that forum is dedicated purely to the task it makes sense to me to start the thread there. I'll paste a link for anyone interested once I've got it started. It's not going to be some crazy race motor. I just want a good reliable street engine. I'm not a hundred percent sure what I'm going to do with the chassis at this point, but I have plenty of time to think about it. I work slow.
The overall plan is to rebuild the motor, and then get it running on a start cart, which I've already started to cobble up. At that point I'll pull the four cylinder, do any chassis mods, and stick in the new engine. It all sounds so simple when I type it... Stupid brain.
I've already torn the engine down to the long block, but have paused to get a few things around the garage cleared up. There will be additional pauses along the way. I've got a zillion things to do around here... I'm pretty determined to get this done though, so hopefully said pauses will be brief.
I will do my best to keep everyone updated along the way. And of course supply plenty of pictures. Here's a few to start.
EDIT - Here's a link to the engine build thread:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-...3-0l-build.html
The car.
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The six.
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The start cart (and mock up engine and trans).
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Full Version: Eric's Six Conversion
Way cool. Engine cart is a excellent start. Great place to keep engine, trans stored. Can't get better than mobile and out of the way.
Can’t wait to see this come together
Look how nice that looks! My 914-6 conversion looks like crud compared to that. That looks like a fun 914-6.
Looks great.. a better start then mine was
Thank, fellas. And, Phil, consider this start cart yours when the time comes. It wouldn't exist without your donor trans case. Honestly, getting this done before you might need it is kind of my goal. I need a little outside pressure as additional motivation.
I made a bit of a meal with the back end of it. Functionally, it'll be perfectly adequate. It's just not as elegant as I'd like. I figure I'll be looking at some delays when bits of the 3.0L are sent out for reconditioning. I'll use those delays to get back on the cart mounting the oil tank, etc.
I made a bit of a meal with the back end of it. Functionally, it'll be perfectly adequate. It's just not as elegant as I'd like. I figure I'll be looking at some delays when bits of the 3.0L are sent out for reconditioning. I'll use those delays to get back on the cart mounting the oil tank, etc.
Ben, that's your muffler hanging off the back of it. Your heat exchangers are hanging on the wall. I wanted to get those on there too, but it (I only tried one) wouldn't go on. There's a bit of flash on the flanges from when they were ground flat, so I'm assuming that's the cause. That said, I bought the larger heat exchangers. Will they fit the 2.0 on my cart, or is the stud spacing different?
Looks like you're off to a great start. Can't wait to see what you do with it. That's one hell of a cart!
What a fantastic combo. Good luck. You look to have a solid start.
Good start. 
You might like to look at my conversion thread below, similar to yours, I started with a disassembled '79 SC core and a 1974 1.8 914.
It's never done...now I'm collecting parts to go aftermarket FI. Nothing against carbs, except for being a bit thirsty they run beyond perfect, but I have another project that I hope to use the carbs and TP dizzy for.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=229913
You might like to look at my conversion thread below, similar to yours, I started with a disassembled '79 SC core and a 1974 1.8 914.
It's never done...now I'm collecting parts to go aftermarket FI. Nothing against carbs, except for being a bit thirsty they run beyond perfect, but I have another project that I hope to use the carbs and TP dizzy for.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=229913
Not Ben, but I will chime in with my experience- the header/ heat exchangers are a very finicky fit. They take some finessing. Although the stud pattern on the aircooled motors of this era are the same, There can be subtle variations in the actual spacing since the heads bolt up to the engine assembly individually. And they can move around a bit as the engine heat cycles through normal use. Include that variation with the tolerance variation that is inevitable even in very well built header flanges such as Ben’s, and any slightly bent or stripped and repaired studs, and the angles that occur as you mate the two, and how you hold your mouth etc etc and it can be tricky.
I would not bother trying to fit headers to any motor than the one they are intended to be used on without good reason.
I would not bother trying to fit headers to any motor than the one they are intended to be used on without good reason.
QUOTE(Detroit @ Mar 23 2021, 03:47 AM) 
Ben, that's your muffler hanging off the back of it. Your heat exchangers are hanging on the wall. I wanted to get those on there too, but it (I only tried one) wouldn't go on. There's a bit of flash on the flanges from when they were ground flat, so I'm assuming that's the cause. That said, I bought the larger heat exchangers. Will they fit the 2.0 on my cart, or is the stud spacing different?
Absolutely they will fit. You may have to enlarge the holes for the studs. The heat exchangers will move. Just did it on my car this weekend. Stainless is very gummy until heat cycled. Meaning they move around a bunch until bolted up and heat cycled.
Excellent project and a great starting point. You will love your 3.0 motor. Do you plan to go with Webers? F.I.? I think the 3.0 is one of the most popular engines in these conversions and they run great regardless of carbs or F.I. (personally, even though the carbs look so perfect, I would go with an F.I. system of some type if you plan to drive it regularly. No gas smell, better mileage and almost no maintenance.)
Regardless of your direction, hit all of the main issues that pop up on 6 engines in our cars and you will just love your car.
Regardless of your direction, hit all of the main issues that pop up on 6 engines in our cars and you will just love your car.
Absolutely they will fit. You may have to enlarge the holes for the studs. The heat exchangers will move. Just did it on my car this weekend. Stainless is very gummy until heat cycled. Meaning they move around a bunch until bolted up and heat cycled.
[/quote]
Cool. Thanks. I figured that was likely the case. I've never had a header go on anything without a touch of finessing, so I wasn't stressed about it. And there's no actual need to put them on the start cart at this point. I just though it would look cool...
[quote name='Detroit' date='Mar 23 2021, 09:51 AM' post='2901847']
Absolutely they will fit. You may have to enlarge the holes for the studs. The heat exchangers will move. Just did it on my car this weekend. Stainless is very gummy until heat cycled. Meaning they move around a bunch until bolted up and heat cycled.
[/quote]
Cool. Thanks. I figured that was likely the case. I've never had a header go on anything without a touch of finessing, so I wasn't stressed about it. And there's no actual need to put them on the start cart at this point. I just though it would look cool...
[/quote]
There is less wiggle room with the heat exchangers vs plain headers.
Absolutely they will fit. You may have to enlarge the holes for the studs. The heat exchangers will move. Just did it on my car this weekend. Stainless is very gummy until heat cycled. Meaning they move around a bunch until bolted up and heat cycled.
[/quote]
Cool. Thanks. I figured that was likely the case. I've never had a header go on anything without a touch of finessing, so I wasn't stressed about it. And there's no actual need to put them on the start cart at this point. I just though it would look cool...
[/quote]
There is less wiggle room with the heat exchangers vs plain headers.
On heat exchangers, it's easier if you can attach them before cranking down on the head studs.
JE makes nice pistons... use min 9.5:1. Might get away with 10:1 if your cams are big enough. My cams are the same Mark Henry has.
JE makes nice pistons... use min 9.5:1. Might get away with 10:1 if your cams are big enough. My cams are the same Mark Henry has.
Thanks for all the input.
I'm not at all worried about the heat exchanger fitment. I did get the one side on the 3.0L on the engine stand. Once the (very small amount of) flash is cleaned up. I've no doubt they'll slide on easily enough.
The fuel system at this point is a question mark. I'm not going to use the CIS. I might have if the motor didn't need rebuilding, but if I'm going this far, I'm going to change the cams. And honestly, the CIS just doesn't look the part. EFI would be brilliant, but this is not a cost-no-object build. That leaves carbs. I have two sets of Zeniths that came with the original -6 engine currently in the start cart. They are my least expensive option by a long shot. That said, I know little about them at this point, and I don't intend to ruin this build by a poor choice in fuel delivery.
I'm not at all worried about the heat exchanger fitment. I did get the one side on the 3.0L on the engine stand. Once the (very small amount of) flash is cleaned up. I've no doubt they'll slide on easily enough.
The fuel system at this point is a question mark. I'm not going to use the CIS. I might have if the motor didn't need rebuilding, but if I'm going this far, I'm going to change the cams. And honestly, the CIS just doesn't look the part. EFI would be brilliant, but this is not a cost-no-object build. That leaves carbs. I have two sets of Zeniths that came with the original -6 engine currently in the start cart. They are my least expensive option by a long shot. That said, I know little about them at this point, and I don't intend to ruin this build by a poor choice in fuel delivery.
QUOTE(Detroit @ Mar 24 2021, 09:12 AM)
Thanks for all the input.
I'm not at all worried about the heat exchanger fitment. I did get the one side on the 3.0L on the engine stand. Once the (very small amount of) flash is cleaned up. I've no doubt they'll slide on easily enough.
The fuel system at this point is a question mark. I'm not going to use the CIS. I might have if the motor didn't need rebuilding, but if I'm going this far, I'm going to change the cams. And honestly, the CIS just doesn't look the part. EFI would be brilliant, but this is not a cost-no-object build. That leaves carbs. I have two sets of Zeniths that came with the original -6 engine currently in the start cart. They are my least expensive option by a long shot. That said, I know little about them at this point, and I don't intend to ruin this build by a poor choice in fuel delivery.
Zeniths are okay, they just they have little if any aftermarket support. Most stick to stock, stock modified, Webers, PMO's, and then aftermarket EFI and ITB's.
I haven't gotten anything else done on the start, but I did start tearing down the motor. I started a thread over on Pelican for the engine rebuild phase of the project:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-...3-0l-build.html
Apart from that I also welded up and installed the framework for a bar outside my kitchen. Unfortunately, I am going to have to tackle some home projects along the way. That said, I'm quite pleased with getting the bar made... It'll get some use.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-...3-0l-build.html
Apart from that I also welded up and installed the framework for a bar outside my kitchen. Unfortunately, I am going to have to tackle some home projects along the way. That said, I'm quite pleased with getting the bar made... It'll get some use.
Well, it's about time I drag this thread out of mothballs...
The motor is running (no videos yet). It's not running great at this point, which I'm pretty sure is down to fueling. I've been hesitant to tackle it with all the unseasonably warm weather we've had, because the last time I ran it (to break in the cams) one of my bloody neighbors called the police... Stay tuned.
I'm confident enough that I'll get the motor running properly, however, that I've commenced work on the car. The motor is out, and I've started disassembly of the suspension. I want to get as much stripped off and cleaned as I'm able prior to getting the motor mount welded in.
The overall plan is to refurbish the suspension and brakes, as well as the pedal box. Not to mention all the details associated with the actual engine swap. As to the forementioned suspension, I'll be doing a bit of "upgrading". For starters, I'll be replacing the CV's, axle flanges, etc. with 911 hardware. To that end I acquired a complete 911 SC suspension, which brings me to my first question...
Do 911 and 914 torsion bars have the same spline count? One of my A-arms is bent, so I'd like to use the 911 components. That said, I don't want to go to heavier torsion bars (which I presume 911 variants are).
Additionally, I'll be adding factory sway bars, and uprating the brakes with S calipers on the front. I'm not sure what to do with the rears at this point, so please chime in if you've tread this path before. I have, of course, read all of Eric Shea's 5-lug conversion threads (multiple times). I don't think I'm totally insane with this plan, but I'm still a little uncertain as to the compatibility of all the hardware in my possession.
Here are a few pics of where I'm at in the process. One thing I was particularly delighted about upon disassembly is the condition of the rocker panels. They're sound. I knew that it's a solid car, but had never had the covers off.
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The motor is running (no videos yet). It's not running great at this point, which I'm pretty sure is down to fueling. I've been hesitant to tackle it with all the unseasonably warm weather we've had, because the last time I ran it (to break in the cams) one of my bloody neighbors called the police... Stay tuned.
I'm confident enough that I'll get the motor running properly, however, that I've commenced work on the car. The motor is out, and I've started disassembly of the suspension. I want to get as much stripped off and cleaned as I'm able prior to getting the motor mount welded in.
The overall plan is to refurbish the suspension and brakes, as well as the pedal box. Not to mention all the details associated with the actual engine swap. As to the forementioned suspension, I'll be doing a bit of "upgrading". For starters, I'll be replacing the CV's, axle flanges, etc. with 911 hardware. To that end I acquired a complete 911 SC suspension, which brings me to my first question...
Do 911 and 914 torsion bars have the same spline count? One of my A-arms is bent, so I'd like to use the 911 components. That said, I don't want to go to heavier torsion bars (which I presume 911 variants are).
Additionally, I'll be adding factory sway bars, and uprating the brakes with S calipers on the front. I'm not sure what to do with the rears at this point, so please chime in if you've tread this path before. I have, of course, read all of Eric Shea's 5-lug conversion threads (multiple times). I don't think I'm totally insane with this plan, but I'm still a little uncertain as to the compatibility of all the hardware in my possession.
Here are a few pics of where I'm at in the process. One thing I was particularly delighted about upon disassembly is the condition of the rocker panels. They're sound. I knew that it's a solid car, but had never had the covers off.
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The car has also undergone a bit of lightening...
It had several pounds of dirt packed in behind the rocker covers.
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It had several pounds of dirt packed in behind the rocker covers.
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Good looking tub! 
I will be watching and following along your build.
As for 911 A arm, no they do not have the same splines as the 914.
Best to find a good set of 914 A-arms with the U tabs for the sway bar. BTW, stock torsion bars are typically worn due to rubber bushings deformation and bars rubbing.
Out of five sets I had, only one was good...
Keep on posting!
I will be watching and following along your build.As for 911 A arm, no they do not have the same splines as the 914.
Best to find a good set of 914 A-arms with the U tabs for the sway bar. BTW, stock torsion bars are typically worn due to rubber bushings deformation and bars rubbing.
Out of five sets I had, only one was good...
Keep on posting!
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
going to be a great project
Agree with Montreal914 that the original sway bars are often ready to be replaced.
You can still get them new directly from SwayAway: Stock 914 17.9mm Torsion Bars
You can still get them new directly from SwayAway: Stock 914 17.9mm Torsion Bars
Thanks for the input, fellas.
I will do my best to keep the thread up to date.
Last week I stumbled upon a set of NOS Weber IDA's for not too much money. Last night I swapped out the chokes and jet pack. I'm hopeful this fixes my suspected fueling issues. I guess I'll find out over thanksgiving.
I will do my best to keep the thread up to date.
Last week I stumbled upon a set of NOS Weber IDA's for not too much money. Last night I swapped out the chokes and jet pack. I'm hopeful this fixes my suspected fueling issues. I guess I'll find out over thanksgiving.
That's a lot of Dirt! 
Nice project.
Nice project.
Okay, I could use a bit of help, please...
I've spent the last couple of days with Covid in the garage disassembling and cleaning brakes. Can anyone enlighten me as to how I remove the parking brake lever assembly? I thought that the spring, hat, and circlip within the caliper body might somehow be retaining it, but I've removed those. The lever, while turning freely, still won't slide out of its bore....
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I've spent the last couple of days with Covid in the garage disassembling and cleaning brakes. Can anyone enlighten me as to how I remove the parking brake lever assembly? I thought that the spring, hat, and circlip within the caliper body might somehow be retaining it, but I've removed those. The lever, while turning freely, still won't slide out of its bore....
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If you have removed the clip in the groove at the bottom of the bore, then the threaded adjuster shaft can be pulled out; It is packed with grease, so it takes a bit of force.
To remove the parking brake lever, first acquire the correct rebuild kit with the frost plug. You have to cut the frost plug, and twist it out with significant force. Then remove the clip holding the shaft in place. Some sources supply an O-ring to replace the original seal. That helps, but I also use a garden hose flat ring just under the lever arm; some fit better than others, and some are up to the heat while others may not be.
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To remove the parking brake lever, first acquire the correct rebuild kit with the frost plug. You have to cut the frost plug, and twist it out with significant force. Then remove the clip holding the shaft in place. Some sources supply an O-ring to replace the original seal. That helps, but I also use a garden hose flat ring just under the lever arm; some fit better than others, and some are up to the heat while others may not be.
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Never mind, thanks. I just found the tech article on the Pelican site...
@davep , no kidding, I only just saw your response to my question! I remember at the time I typed my never mind comment, I hadn't received any replies to the question. I guess maybe my computer hadn't updated...
Anyway, thank you for the info.
I did get the rears, fronts, and balance valve all disassembled. My hope was to get everything rebuilt over Christmas holiday, but I had some challenges getting everything plated. In the end, the fourth plater I tried got the job done, but I didn't get the parts back until last week. They do, however, look great, and I'm happy to have found a reliable source to plate castings.
The fronts and balance valve are all rebuilt. Rears are next.
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Anyway, thank you for the info.
I did get the rears, fronts, and balance valve all disassembled. My hope was to get everything rebuilt over Christmas holiday, but I had some challenges getting everything plated. In the end, the fourth plater I tried got the job done, but I didn't get the parts back until last week. They do, however, look great, and I'm happy to have found a reliable source to plate castings.
The fronts and balance valve are all rebuilt. Rears are next.
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Did you rebuild the rear proportioning valve yourself?
If so, how did you set the adjustment?
Nice plating there!
Beautiful!
Jewelry for car folk...
If so, how did you set the adjustment?
Nice plating there!
Beautiful!
Jewelry for car folk...
QUOTE(technicalninja @ Feb 11 2025, 12:14 PM)
Did you rebuild the rear proportioning valve yourself?
If so, how did you set the adjustment?
Nice plating there!
Beautiful!
Jewelry for car folk...
I don’t know. It looks like gold plate, and maybe a bit like bling and who am I kidding, I am jealous.
Nice work so far. The 3.0 is going to be fun.
Thanks for the compliments, fellas.
@techniclaninja, I have not yet set the proportioning valve. I'm going to have to cross that bridge at a later date. I've got 911S calipers for the front of this thing. The decision on tackling a 911 rear brake set-up has yet to be made. In any case, I figured I'd have to play with the proportioning valve, otherwise I might have left well enough alone.
@techniclaninja, I have not yet set the proportioning valve. I'm going to have to cross that bridge at a later date. I've got 911S calipers for the front of this thing. The decision on tackling a 911 rear brake set-up has yet to be made. In any case, I figured I'd have to play with the proportioning valve, otherwise I might have left well enough alone.
QUOTE(Detroit @ Feb 12 2025, 06:04 AM)
Thanks for the compliments, fellas.
@techniclaninja, I have not yet set the proportioning valve. I'm going to have to cross that bridge at a later date. I've got 911S calipers for the front of this thing. The decision on tackling a 911 rear brake set-up has yet to be made. In any case, I figured I'd have to play with the proportioning valve, otherwise I might have left well enough alone.
The easy button for correctly sized rears is the 914-6 repops that PMB offers.
$1000 for a pair, no core charge!
Correct ratio to your S fronts.
Keeps the original E-brake stuff...
Available with spacers for vented rotors!
That valve is not exactly a proportioning valve and cannot be "tuned" like a normal valve.
That pup reaches a specific pressure and then actuates a pressure regulator cutting pressure to the rear. Even Eric @ PMB calls it a "regulator" and not a proportioning valve.
IMO you need a hydraulic test bed to set activation pressure. It looks "touchy" enough that I've decided to let PMB rebuild my valve instead of doing it myself.
I was hoping you had a work around...
TNinja, thanks for the info. Good call on those PMB -6 rear calipers. That may indeed be the way to go. Not sure what I'll do about that regulator, but I've plenty of time to think about it...
I found some time this weekend, after a week in Florida, to get the rear calipers back together. Another box checked.
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Works of art.
Just adding my Bilstein question thread, so that I've got everything in one place...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry3193457
...And a second one from Pelican.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...ml#post12428492
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry3193457
...And a second one from Pelican.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...ml#post12428492
Well, I finally got all the required bits to put the S calipers back together. I didn't bother Polishing the bodies before anodizing. It seemed like a lot of added expense for no real reason... They still look pretty nice.
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It continues to be a challenge to find significant blocks of time for this project. As I'm sure most peops who attempt these undertakings will understand. But, I do make an effort to make some small amount of headway at least every few days. A little progress is better than none...
I've had a finished carpenter installing moldings throughout the house, and I gave him the 'parking side' (as opposed to the 'shop side') of the garage in which to set up all of his equipment. So, for over a month the 914 has been up on the hoist with the Ferrari under it.
I did, however, have access to my bench and sand blast cabinet, so I took to refurbishing some of the suspension bits.
I welded sway bar drop link tabs to the control arms, and dropped them off at the powder coater...
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...media blasted and painted the struts. Jamie has installed new bushings for me. These are Bilstein struts which of course were originally green. As this is a restomod rather than a restoration, I figured I'd change to yellow so they'll match the shocks.
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The rear hubs I had plated some time ago. This weekend I Alodined the front hubs in the hope it's provide some small amount of corrosion protection. I suspect it won't do much, but I already had the chems to do carburetor bodies... Then I pressed all the studs back in.
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I've had a finished carpenter installing moldings throughout the house, and I gave him the 'parking side' (as opposed to the 'shop side') of the garage in which to set up all of his equipment. So, for over a month the 914 has been up on the hoist with the Ferrari under it.
I did, however, have access to my bench and sand blast cabinet, so I took to refurbishing some of the suspension bits.
I welded sway bar drop link tabs to the control arms, and dropped them off at the powder coater...
Click to view attachment
...media blasted and painted the struts. Jamie has installed new bushings for me. These are Bilstein struts which of course were originally green. As this is a restomod rather than a restoration, I figured I'd change to yellow so they'll match the shocks.
Click to view attachment
The rear hubs I had plated some time ago. This weekend I Alodined the front hubs in the hope it's provide some small amount of corrosion protection. I suspect it won't do much, but I already had the chems to do carburetor bodies... Then I pressed all the studs back in.
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