master cylinder reservoir lines Options

[bajafreaks]

I'm in the middle of installing a new master cylinder, and yes its the job from hell.
My plastic reservoir lines are pretty brittle so I'm thinking I may replace them with rubber lines instead that are approved for brake fluid of course, it will probably make the overall MC install easier as well, at least I hope so. Anyone replaced their lines with all rubber?
The size I believe is 9mm inside diameter, I'm finding 3/8" which 9.5mm.

[bdstone914]

I'm in the middle of installing a new master cylinder, and yes its the job from hell.
My plastic reservoir lines are pretty brittle so I'm thinking I may replace them with rubber lines instead that are approved for brake fluid of course, it will probably make the overall MC install easier as well, at least I hope so. Anyone replaced their lines with all rubber?
The size I believe is 9mm inside diameter, I'm finding 3/8" which 9.5mm.

Problem is finding lines of the same OD to fit the grometts that are in the sheet metal below the gas tank. Check with PMB

[Literati914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[emerygt350]

is your difficulty getting the grommets back into the MC? I just did this job earlier in the spring. In my case they went in ok without too much swearing. I did it with the grommets on the lines and just pushed them in at together. Nice and lubed with brake fluid.

[Shivers]

I'm in the middle of installing a new master cylinder, and yes its the job from hell.
My plastic reservoir lines are pretty brittle so I'm thinking I may replace them with rubber lines instead that are approved for brake fluid of course, it will probably make the overall MC install easier as well, at least I hope so. Anyone replaced their lines with all rubber?
The size I believe is 9mm inside diameter, I'm finding 3/8" which 9.5mm.

I'm pretty sure you had a thread about your M/C, can't remember what it was. I think you were looking for the metal ends. Do I have a point, why yes, if you never found the metal ends and you still need I have two I no longer will be using.

[bajafreaks]

is your difficulty getting the grommets back into the MC? I just did this job earlier in the spring. In my case they went in ok without too much swearing. I did it with the grommets on the lines and just pushed them in at together. Nice and lubed with brake fluid.

Trying to do the job without pulling the tank, I know, I know...
Yes, the difficulty is getting the grommets popped in, tried several different ways and still cant get it. Thought if I changed the lines I could do it all on the work bench and not have to wrestle with also keeping the orientation of the metal lines since the rubber will be more flexible.

[bajafreaks]

I'm in the middle of installing a new master cylinder, and yes its the job from hell.
My plastic reservoir lines are pretty brittle so I'm thinking I may replace them with rubber lines instead that are approved for brake fluid of course, it will probably make the overall MC install easier as well, at least I hope so. Anyone replaced their lines with all rubber?
The size I believe is 9mm inside diameter, I'm finding 3/8" which 9.5mm.

I'm pretty sure you had a thread about your M/C, can't remember what it was. I think you were looking for the metal ends. Do I have a point, why yes, if you never found the metal ends and you still need I have two I no longer will be using.

Thanks but i have the lines.

[fiacra]

is your difficulty getting the grommets back into the MC? I just did this job earlier in the spring. In my case they went in ok without too much swearing. I did it with the grommets on the lines and just pushed them in at together. Nice and lubed with brake fluid.

Trying to do the job without pulling the tank, I know, I know...
Yes, the difficulty is getting the grommets popped in, tried several different ways and still cant get it. Thought if I changed the lines I could do it all on the work bench and not have to wrestle with also keeping the orientation of the metal lines since the rubber will be more flexible.

No need to fully pull the tank. I've done this three times now (which I know does not make me an expert (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) and I've just tilted the driver's side end of the tank up to have better access. Easy to do, only takes a few moments, and gives you good access. Everybody seems to struggle with getting the grommets in place, and I was no exception. Lubing with brake fluid made it a lot easier. I'm not sure how using rubber lines instead of the "plastic" lines is any particular advantage in installation. I got new plastic lines from 914Rubber, but likely you can get them from PMB as well. Don't forget about the washer underneath the grommet. Other things to remember to have on hand are new grommets where the lines come through the floor pan and new washers at the banjo bolt on the MC. It's good to have everything you might need standing by at the ready (including an extra MC grommet in case one gets damaged) so that you don't get bogged down. A few extra bucks spent as insurance is well worth it when doing this job. Then begins the fun of bleeding the system. Good luck!

[bajafreaks]

is your difficulty getting the grommets back into the MC? I just did this job earlier in the spring. In my case they went in ok without too much swearing. I did it with the grommets on the lines and just pushed them in at together. Nice and lubed with brake fluid.

Trying to do the job without pulling the tank, I know, I know...
Yes, the difficulty is getting the grommets popped in, tried several different ways and still cant get it. Thought if I changed the lines I could do it all on the work bench and not have to wrestle with also keeping the orientation of the metal lines since the rubber will be more flexible.

No need to fully pull the tank. I've done this three times now (which I know does not make me an expert (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) and I've just tilted the driver's side end of the tank up to have better access. Easy to do, only takes a few moments, and gives you good access. Everybody seems to struggle with getting the grommets in place, and I was no exception. Lubing with brake fluid made it a lot easier. I'm not sure how using rubber lines instead of the "plastic" lines is any particular advantage in installation. I got new plastic lines from 914Rubber, but likely you can get them from PMB as well. Don't forget about the washer underneath the grommet. Other things to remember to have on hand are new grommets where the lines come through the floor pan and new washers at the banjo bolt on the MC. It's good to have everything you might need standing by at the ready (including an extra MC grommet in case one gets damaged) so that you don't get bogged down. A few extra bucks spent as insurance is well worth it when doing this job. Then begins the fun of bleeding the system. Good luck!

Curious if you got the grommets in with the MC in place/bolted to the body or did you do it detached? I tried detached but when you go to putting it back in the body it puts a stain on the lines and they pull out of the MC as well as trying to keep the right configuration, so they don't angle the lines/grommets and hit the body. That's why I was thinking to have more flexibility at the metal lines or put them on the metal lines after reinstalling the MC.

[Literati914]

I'm pretty sure you had a thread about your M/C, can't remember what it was. I think you were looking for the metal ends. Do I have a point, why yes, if you never found the metal ends and you still need I have two I no longer will be using.

I provided the needed end to the guy that was looking…
I asked him for details on what he’d be using for the tubing - got no reply.
Maybe if @barkamatic sees this thread, he’ll share?

[fiacra]

"Curious if you got the grommets in with the MC in place/bolted to the body or did you do it detached? I tried detached but when you go to putting it back in the body it puts a stain on the lines and they pull out of the MC as well as trying to keep the right configuration, so they don't angle the lines/grommets and hit the body. That's why I was thinking to have more flexibility at the metal lines or put them on the metal lines after reinstalling the MC."

I've tried all three ways. Popping the metal lines into the grommets already in the MC, putting the metal lines in the grommets and then installing them in the MC, and assembling everything from the MC to the reservoir and then installing the MC. Putting everything together and then installing is doable. I can't remember exactly how I dealt with the grommets on the floor pan. I think when I threaded the lines up from below I had the body grommets positioned on the line below the penetration in the floor pain, connected everything, and then slid the grommets up the line and into place in the body. I do remember that was a PITA to do. Lots of silicon lubricant if I remember correctly. The last time I changed the MC I put the grommets on the metal lines and then installed them into the MC after it was on the car. I took a flare wrench, placed it on top of the grommet, and then put downward force on the flare wrench by placing the other end into a big open end wrench and then using that as a lever to put downward force on the flared end of the wrench sitting on top of the MC grommet. Use a wood block, a tool, the body, etc. to lever against at the point where the end of the flare wrench goes into the open end you're using. I used a giant 32mm open end as the lever. With a little brake fluid as lubricant they popped right in. Took me a while to figure that way out and I spent a fair amount of time by hand, using curved pliers, and other unsuccessful methods. I gave up for the night, slept on the problem, then came back the next morning and tried that method. Done in five minutes. Maybe I just got lucky. Hoping never to have to do this again and find out. I had the joy of getting one of the defective MCs from 914Rubber that had the poorly pressed in Welch plug and having to replace the MC twice in a period of two weeks.

[emerygt350]

I did not change out the lines so I never touched the tank. I had the mc attached to the car and used the lever method as described above with a wrench. At least I think it was attached.

[barkamatic]

I'm pretty sure you had a thread about your M/C, can't remember what it was. I think you were looking for the metal ends. Do I have a point, why yes, if you never found the metal ends and you still need I have two I no longer will be using.

I provided the needed end to the guy that was looking…
I asked him for details on what he’d be using for the tubing - got no reply.
Maybe if @barkamatic sees this thread, he’ll share?

Sorry I took so long. Just saw this. I purchased rubber hose from Pegasus. It is made especially for remote brake reservoirs. That is all I remember. Haven't had a chance to reinstall the metal tube.

[VaccaRabite]

At this point, when I need to do this it is alwasy faster to just put those lines in the grommets on the bench and then install the master in the car, and not the other way around. Its easier if you are using an ATE master. For whatever reason the Euro grommets are harder to get installed.

Zach

[bajafreaks]

Got the M/F'er installed today, I'd have to say this has been the hardest task of my restoration so far and yes that includes the dreaded air box install.
I ended up pulling the lines out of the car (their condition was better than I thought) and as just mentioned did the whole thing on the bench, fishing the lines back up was a bit of a challenge but with the gas tank loosened up I got them pulled up on the second try.
God, I hope it doesn't leak....