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> Adjusting Bilstein coiloers, coilovers
Mike1981
post Jun 10 2026, 10:30 AM
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Hello Everyone

Work on the suby conversion continues....

I've had many help me in the recent past.

Hope to ask for additional help.(Thanks)

I have these coilovers on the rear of the car.

https://cart.bilsteinus.com/shock-24-001793.html



The drives side is almost 2" lower than the passenger side.


Attached Image

Both are on the 6th or top adjustment with the circlip installed.

Could this be a coil issue or a shock issue?

Any Ideas as to how to adjust these???

ill add pics tonight....

Thanks

Mike
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mepstein
post Jun 10 2026, 11:38 AM
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Coils can lose their spring over time. Sometimes unequally. Might be time for a new set.
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Mike1981
post Jun 10 2026, 04:12 PM
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Thanks Mepstein

Do you feel it's the coils or the shocks?

Or both??
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porschetub
post Jun 10 2026, 10:39 PM
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QUOTE(Mike1981 @ Jun 11 2026, 10:12 AM) *

Thanks Mepstein

Do you feel it's the coils or the shocks?

Or both??

More than likely spring/s i have found the Bilstein "yellow's " are very reliable.
Buy some quality springs and you should be fine ,cheers.
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infraredcalvin
post Jun 10 2026, 11:38 PM
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Time to get some adjustable coil-over sleeves, cheap and springs plentiful!
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Dave_Darling
post Jun 11 2026, 01:48 AM
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These are adjustable. They are coil-overs, the coil is over the strut. Changing the position of the spring perch just hides the problem.

The springs have likely sagged or broken. Almost certainly time for new springs.

--DD
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wonkipop
post Jun 11 2026, 04:11 AM
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there is a chance it could also be the adjustment of the front torsion bars.
a high right side front or weak left side front will transfer and cause the left side rear to be down.

thats not to discount a weak rear spring.
but just saying.
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mepstein
post Jun 11 2026, 04:47 AM
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QUOTE(Mike1981 @ Jun 10 2026, 06:12 PM) *

Thanks Mepstein

Do you feel it's the coils or the shocks?

Or both??


The springs hold up the car. The shocks control compression and rebound. Once you remove the assembly from the car, you can remove the springs from the shock body and "test" the shock for resistance. Every 914 I've ever purchased had old springs that were no good. Usually unequal height.
They are probably on the highest setting because the PO was trying to adjust out the sag.
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Mike1981
post Jun 11 2026, 04:52 AM
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Hello Everyone.

Thanks for all the advice.

Would these be considered quality springs?

https://914rubber.com/100-lb-sport-rear-spring-set

Or are there other options?

Mike
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stownsen914
post Jun 11 2026, 05:55 AM
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I'd agree that the springs are a more likely culprit, but don't discount the possibility of an issue with the shocks. I had some Bilsteins rebuilt once for the front of my 911, and with no other changes it raised the front of the car almost an inch. I was pretty surprised, but apparently the shocks had lost most or all of their gas charge, and rebuilding them increased the effective spring rate.
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Retroracer
post Jun 11 2026, 06:37 AM
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@Mike1981

re: "The drives side is almost 2" lower than the passenger side."

If both shocks are on the same setting (high!!) the 2" difference could point to some other possibilities:

a) as someone suggested, check the front height L <> R from the arch/floor corner to the ground just behind the front wheels. The height here is easily adjustable via a vertical bolt and these can "back out" over time, leading to mismatch

b) the rear arm pivots MAY have worn in their metal location tabs and have loosened or rusted out. This can lead to L <>R height differences and some alarming camber issues, as the arm now "leans" at the wrong angle. If you're taking the coilovers off to adjust you might want to check the integrity of the arm pivots and the "natural resting" angle of the arm which should be somewhat parallel to the ground

Here's hoping its something simple like dodgy springs.

- Tony

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StarBear
post Jun 11 2026, 07:06 AM
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Yep, the 914Rubber 100# springs the way to go. Most other suppliers sell their units.
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infraredcalvin
post Jun 11 2026, 08:10 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jun 11 2026, 12:48 AM) *

These are adjustable. They are coil-overs, the coil is over the strut.

Axe vs scalpel, he has a suby conversion, weights and balance different from stock, for not much more $$$, I was just suggesting a more finely tune-able setup…
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Mike1981
post Jun 11 2026, 10:25 AM
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Thanks everyone for this help.

Appreciate the discussion from everyone

After Wonkipop's comment about the torsion bars I got my tape measure out.

Here is what I found top of fender arch to floor.

Front driver 23 5/8"
Front pass 24 3/8"

Rear Driver 23 1/8"
Rear Pass 24 1/16 "

The rears have aftermarket flares, so this may be off a bit. Not as bad as first thought...

This was a track car I'm converting to street and the driers side has many dents in it from road racing.

Should I level out the torsion bars in the font first?

No rubbing on any corner yet.....
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brant
post Jun 11 2026, 10:31 AM
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Don’t measure ride height from a fender

Use a chassis point
Fenders have had accidents sometimes
Replacements like your flares.
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Mike1981
post Jun 11 2026, 11:16 AM
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QUOTE(brant @ Jun 11 2026, 12:31 PM) *

Don’t measure ride height from a fender

Use a chassis point
Fenders have had accidents sometimes
Replacements like your flares.



Good Point thanks

New info:

Used chassis lip where floorplan meets inner wheel well on front of car

Used jacking doughnuts on rear all not dented good shape

Front driver 6 1/16"
Front pass 6 1/2"

Rear Driver 6 1/2"
Rear Pass 7 1/8"
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