Wideband AFR gauge and sensor? Options

[TRP]

Hello,

As I waiit for Ken to finish building my 2056 I want to keep moving on other projects. As I mentioned before, I am keeping the LJet, running 2.0 heads, 2.0 intake runners, the flexible couplers from 914Werke, and the larger bus throttle body. I have read a few threads on this conversion/ upgrade and understand it's straightforward, but I may need to verify the AFR.

Should I buy a wideband gauge and sensor? Or is this as easy as "adjusting some big wheel one click"?

If I should get a wideband setup, which one do you all recommend?

Thanks in advance.

[Ninja]

I would not do a T4 without both a wideband and a spark plug located verified accurate CHT.

The wide band SHOWS you how much to "turn that wheel" and which direction you need to go.

The CHT keeps you from melting it down.

There are multiple ways to "turn the wheel" on a L-jet one of which is actually adjusting the flap tension on the AFM by turning a wheel and relocking the index.

I haven't bought a new one in years. I don't know what the hot ticket is today.

Biggest problem on a T4 appears to be sensor placement IMO.

A 4-1 exhaust like Tangerine or MSDS is the easy button but $$$.

Normal HE pipe only sees one cylinder. It will still read fine for that single cylinder only.

Muffler exit is NG as it sees oxygen from the atmosphere for 8-12" deep.

The Bursch muffler set ups have an excellent spot directly before the muffler.

[TRP]

Thanks Ninja, I literally have no idea where that 'wheel' is located yet, I may lean on you guys when that time comes.

From what I've read here, if you can only do one sensor, folks say to put it on the tube from the number 3 cylinder. You can install multiple bungs and swap the sensor as you're tuning, but that seems more appropriate for carbs. Innovative does make a pretty slick unit that runs two sensors with two separate readouts on one gauge, it's 360 bucks. Ouch.

CHT seems like a good option as well, especially since I have the motor being built and the new heads already come with CHT holes drilled and tapped. I would need to open up the tins a bit for the sensor. Again, assuming #3 cylinder is the best location for that. I have read you can get a dual sensor and just open up the tin to accept it. Use one output for the existing CHT sensor and a second for the gauge?

This motor rebuild is getting expensive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[rfinegan]

Experts say.....Mount the CHT thermocouple under the #3 spark plug. NOT the stock location that is drilled/taped. Most heads will need a little relief about the spark plug hole for the sensor to sit flat and not turn and twist during install/removal..lots of pic on this in world search

[rfinegan]

FWIW:
I am finally retiring my VDO gauge( off 50 degrees HIGH the other day) and while I can do math pretty quick, I did flip out with the high reading while in the melt my head temp range.

Can anyone recommend the speed hut CHT gauge?
https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/rev...500f-w-warning/

[Chad911sc]

I installed the AEM afr in my car and it has been super helpful in changing out the Venturi’s and jets as I’ve tuned my dual Webers. Very good quality.

[FlacaProductions]

I have the Performance Electronics wideband in my 2.0. LOVE the bluetooth feature as I don't have to install another gauge and run lines to the cabin. Powered it off of a relay triggered by the AAR which only runs when the fuel pump runs - which is key so that you don't heat the AFR sensor unless the engine is running.

Hardest part was getting a bung in the exhaust.

https://pe-ltd.com/product/wideband/

[TRP]

I really like the idea of not having to add a gauge. Did you get the 6' extension cable? I assume you mounted the 'brain' somewhere up by the relay board or the battery?

Does anyone offer a Bluetooth CHT setup?

[FlacaProductions]

I was thinking that I wouldn't keep the AFR in the car after I got things tuned so I wanted it to be easily removed. I put the main unit and relay on a small plate with two magnets and it just sticks up on the rear wall of the engine compartment. Very strong - hasn't moved.

I do believe i got the extension cable as the length on the sensor is just not quite enough but then you end up with quite a bit of slack to deal with.

Wiring: I made a small quick release connector Y to split off power from the AAR lead to relay terminal 86, 85 is ground, 87 is + power out to the AAR and 30 is + power in from the battery (or in my case, i have an aux fuse box that is constant power from the battery) - All easily reversible. At some point, I'll pull that wiring and tidy it up with some better connectors and shrink tube but for now, they have done the job.

No viable bluetooth CHT setup that i'm aware of. I have a Dakota Digital gauge with the sensor under #3.