Recommendations for inch pound torque wrenches Options

[fiacra]

Several recent threads about oil screens has me thinking I need to invest in another tool - a torque wrench that is more accurate at the lower end of scale. To that end, seeking recommendations for which inch pound torque wrench to buy. What do you have and would you recommend it? I suspect there will be lots of different opinions, but lets hear them!

[FlacaProductions]

Great question - I don't have an answer and I'm following this thread - but my approach on the common, smaller stuff (like the sump bolt) is that I have the conversion from inches to feet printed out and right in the case with the wrench. Saves me from doing the calculation (wrong) each time.

(The oil sump plate is 9 ft/lbs which is 108 inch/lbs...not a pound more. I also stay away from messing with the screen for just that reason - that thread really makes me itch)

[sixnotfour]

I have a 3/8 drive 40-200 inlb Snap-On, 25yrs old ..
https://shop.snapon.com/product/US-Torque-I...in-lb)/QD2R200A

and ftlb for most everything else case related..
https://shop.snapon.com/product/US-Torque-I...Green)/QE2R100G

[TRP]

Worth every penny

[FlacaProductions]

On the SnapOn:
• Accurate to ±4% clockwise and ±6% counterclockwise from 20% of full scale to full scale

Interesting - I did a quick look at the Amazon offerings and kinda kept moving when I saw the same specs but maybe that's the industry standard.

[JeffBowlsby]

I have Craftsman ft-lb and in-lb from 20 yrs ago, good quality and reliable. I don’t know about buying new today.

[fiacra]

On the SnapOn:
• Accurate to ±4% clockwise and ±6% counterclockwise from 20% of full scale to full scale

Interesting - I did a quick look at the Amazon offerings and kinda kept moving when I saw the same specs but maybe that's the industry standard.

Yeah, I looked on Amazon and it was just too much of a cluttered field, hence the request for recommendations. Many years ago I made a wise investment in a used snap-on tool set. More recently I inherited a somewhat looted Mac tool set/box that has filled a few holes in my collection. When I was 30 years younger it made sense to spend maximum dollars on tools I'd have for decades. I appreciate the recommendation for a snap on tool, but I'm not sure the return on investment calculation for a $500 snap on torque wrench makes much sense now. I consider Harbor Freight, and the like, to be tools I get for a specific job and not for long term use. Not necessarily one time use, but something along those lines. A torque wrench is one of my most used tools, but I still have to carefully consider the investment. I think most of us are in that same position.

[fiacra]

I have Craftsman ft-lb and in-lb from 20 yrs ago, good quality and reliable. I don’t know about buying new today.

Same here, although mine are a bit older than that! Sears sold the Craftsman brand a few years back and the quality fell off the edge of a cliff. My old Craftsman tool set is excellent --- not the quality of my Mac or Snap-On, but still pretty damn good.

[Superhawk996]

I’m going to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

While torque wrenches are necessary tools and should be used there is a deeper problem I’ve seen over 40 years of playing with cars and watching others do the same. I’ve almost always owned Japanese and European cars while my friends owned Domestic stuff.

The biggest issue is the guys that grew up on Murican’ iron seem to think more force (or torque) is the solution to almost every problem. The BFH or the breaker bar come out of the tool box almost as a first choice. Not trying make fun of anyone - just an observation I’ve seen over and over.

That may have some merit when dealing with steel and cast iron. Euro and Japanese stuff tends to involve a lot more aluminum and magnesium. Fasteners tend to be M6 and M8 instead of 3/8 and 1/2”. These differences don’t lend themselves to the BFH and/or more torque approach.

A torque wrench won’t always save you when you don’t have an experienced feel for how much torque a fastener can take. Blind use of torque wrenches can still lead to failure. Especially if you’ve got the wrong spec and don’t have expertise to either recognize the spec seems wrong or don’t have the “feel” of when too much torque is being used.

So how to get that experienced feel for how much torque fasteners can take if you haven’t already learned it working on cheap stuff like bicycles, lawnmowers, and mini-bikes?

Consider this skill builder:

Go buy some simple scrap metal or angle iron. About 1/8” thick steel is perfect.

Put two pieces of it back to back and drill a bunch of holes. 4mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm through both parts.

Now go buy a bunch of bolts and nuts of those sizes - like 3-4 of each.

Bolt them up and now we’re going to intentionally over torque them.

Get a feel for what it feels like then the joint first goes hard when the two pieces of angle iron make initial solid contact. .

Then keep applying more torque incrementally until you can feel the fastener beginning to yield. See if you can then back off the torque - inspect the threads. Then do it again and again until you can really feel when that initial yield is starting to happen.

Likely you’ll screw it up and actually strip fasteners - good. Now you’re getting a feel for what is too much torque.

Rinse, lather & repeat until you can reliably start to feel the fastener just beginning to fail so that you can stop just short of the catastrophic damage.

Want more experience?

Repeat the exercise putting gasket material between the angle iron pieces to soften up the joint. It will substantially change the “feel”.

Ready for the advanced class?

Drill and tap the appropriate holes in Aluminum. Again- will have a different feel just prior to failure.

And the PhD?
Repeat these exercises with and without oil on the fasteners. You’ll quickly discover that when fasteners are lubricated it takes a whole lot less torque to fail. a torque wrench won’t save you if the torque spec is for a dry fastener (most are) and you’ve applied anti-sieze.

I know this seems silly but for those that haven’t already earned the experienced “feel” via the school of hard knocks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) it is far less costly and time consuming than damaging parts on the car.

Now get back to your Amazon shopping (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Ninja]

I have over a quarter million worth of tools and I use a beam style inch/lb torque wrench for the little stuff.

I rock a Matco DR 100-1 which goes to 100inch/lbs. I wish it went to 150...
So, I have a baby beam torque wrench that was 200% more than it's worth.
Mine says accurate to 2%.

This is one of those things they don't tell you about. Beam torque wrenches are more accurate that clickers.

An inexpensive beam will be AS accurate as the most expensive Snap-On clicker!!!

You have to know how to use it! The little ball you grab is on a pivot and it needs to be "floating" to be accurate (not twisted and hitting the bar).

I wish my little puppy went a bit higher as I will commonly need stuff in the 100-150 range.

The clickers are super bitchy to use at extremely low torque settings.

Did a bit of searching on Amazon and found a couple.

I like the crap out of Park Tools! They are a higher end bicycle tool supplier and I may purchase the first one I found as it goes to 140!

Yes, I do have 2 high end Snappy clickers in Ft./LBS. Back when I purchased, they were over $200. Now they are over $500!!!

A buddy has a high end in/lb. clicker, a Matco. My beam is as accurate as that one.

Especially on a budget don't overlook beam torque wrenches...

Thermometers are another "Old school is better". The old glass/mercury versions are LIGHT YEARS more accurate than anything that has electronics. I use electronics (adjustable ones) in my daily use (automotive AC shop) and I use 3 old school thermos as "standards" to adjust them. One in the shop (ambient) one in the fridge (cold) and one in the freezer (stupid cold).

I have not found an electric thermometer including a $$$ Snap On pyrometer that will "slope" to all three of my standards...

Cheapy beam torque wrench is fine!

Huge tip on keeping your clicker accurate: Turn it down to lowest reading for storage.
Don't turn it past the last reading.

I've done this with my main Snap-On clicker since it was new (35 years). I have sent it in to be recalibrated 3 times. It's NEVER needed to be adjusted!!!



I like this little Park. As I have stuff that can get me by I'm going to tell the wife and kids that it would make a good x-max gift! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-1-2-Bea...124&sr=8-15

A cheaper one that only goes to 80inch lbs

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-...sr=8-3&th=1

[Ninja]

I’m going to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

While torque wrenches are necessary tools and should be used there is a deeper problem I’ve seen over 40 years of playing with cars and watching others do the same. I’ve almost always owned Japanese and European cars while my friends owned Domestic stuff.

The biggest issue is the guys that grew up on Murican’ iron seem to think more force (or torque) is the solution to almost every problem. The BFH or the breaker bar come out of the tool box almost as a first choice. Not trying make fun of anyone - just an observation I’ve seen over and over.

That may have some merit when dealing with steel and cast iron. Euro and Japanese stuff tends to involve a lot more aluminum and magnesium. Fasteners tend to be M6 and M8 instead of 3/8 and 1/2”. These differences don’t lend themselves to the BFH and/or more torque approach.

A torque wrench won’t always save you when you don’t have an experienced feel for how much torque a fastener can take. Blind use of torque wrenches can still lead to failure. Especially if you’ve got the wrong spec and don’t have expertise to either recognize the spec seems wrong or don’t have the “feel” of when too much torque is being used.

So how to get that experienced feel for how much torque fasteners can take if you haven’t already learned it working on cheap stuff like bicycles, lawnmowers, and mini-bikes?

Consider this skill builder:

Go buy some simple scrap metal or angle iron. About 1/8” thick steel is perfect.

Put two pieces of it back to back and drill a bunch of holes. 4mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm through both parts.

Now go buy a bunch of bolts and nuts of those sizes - like 3-4 or each.

Bolt them up and now we’re going to intentionally over torque them.

Get a feel for what it feels like then the joint first goes hard when the two pieces of angle iron make initial solid contact. .

Then keep applying more torque incrementally until you can feel the fastener beginning to yield. See if you can then back off the torque - inspect the threads. Then do it again and again until you can really feel when that initial yield is starting to happen.

Likely you’ll screw it up and actually strip fasteners - good. Now you’re getting a feel for what is too much torque.

Rinse, lather & repeat until you can reliably start to feel the fastener just beginning to fail so that you can stop just short of the catastrophic damage.

Want more experience?

Repeat the exercise putting gasket material between the angle iron pieces to soften up the joint. It will substantially change the “feel”.

Ready for the advanced class?

Drill and tap the appropriate holes in Aluminum. Again- will have a different feel just prior to failure.

And the PhD?
Repeat these exercises with and without oil on the fasteners. You’ll quickly discover that when fasteners are lubricated it takes a whole lot less torque to fail. a torque wrench won’t save you if the torque spec is for a dry fastener (most are) and you’ve applied anti-size.

I know this seems silly but for those that haven’t already earned the experienced “feel” via the school of hard knocks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) it is far less costly and time consuming than damaging parts on the car.

Now get back to your Amazon shopping (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

He's so freaking right!!!!

I've done this shit so long I can accurately torque stuff with a powered impact!

That "feel" is CRITICAL!!!!

His method of destructive training is EXCELLENT.
Really good quick way to get 90% of your "feel" trained.
Ninja approved! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

Plastic intakes are critical for low end torque.
I CONSTANTLY test myself.
Had a Ford with a plastic intake that I decided to tighten by hand with a normal 1/4" ratchet. The torque setting was 72inch/lbs.

Plastic intakes are actually easy...
As the fastener start compressing the silicon O-ring the rotational torque goes up. Important to tighten evenly in multiple steps cris-cross. A nut driver work GREAT for the initial compression of the O-rings
But when you finally fully compress the O-ring and the plastic intake actually hits the head the torque increases dramatically.
You work it down till it goes solid and then another 10 degrees or so. Looking for mild compression of the plastic intake itself.

I did the Ford and then went back with my buddy's high end in/lb. clicker.
As his torque wrench clicked the fasteners all moved a tiny little bit...

So, now I know, in the field, without a torque wrench, I can KICK ASS!!!


Another thing that has been lost to time is "relaxation" time. First time I saw relaxation time mentioned in a Mercedes Benz service manual I thought "Coffee breaks built into the time guides" but I was wrong...

On many gaskets the mounting torque will drop over 15-30 minutes as the gasket compresses and "relaxes".

Stretch to torque (STT) fasteners eliminate this but I still recheck EVERYTHING that is not STT after 30+ minutes. Often it will move another 5-10 degrees!