reservior to master lines, how do you get them to seat! Options

[VaccaRabite]

installed the mew master tonight. its been 15 years or more since I last did this, and I thought I had everything seated.

Filled the res with DOT4 and it all poured right down to the ground. I figure it HAS to be the lines from the res to the master not being seated. What's the magic to get them to seat? I've clearly forgotten.

Zach

[Artfrombama]

What I do;

Twist the lines until they will align with the MC at a right angle (The steel tubing will twist slightly inside the plastic tubing).
Just start the rubber boots on the end of the steel tube, apply a light coat of silicone grease, I use a long offset pair of needle nose pliers to seat the tubing into the MC

[sixnotfour]

Washers ?
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=370079

[Literati914]

Hey Zack - you do have the washers inside and at the bottom of those bores, right? I ask because my MC (with grommets pre-installed) were missing these washers. I did not know this - All seemed ok at first after the initial bleed - but I noticed a weeping that eventually drained most of my reservoir while the car sat. I have the washers on hand now with a new set of Porsche branded grommets and am going to have to do what you are doing.. again. Sux.

I've seen someone ( @iankarr maybe?) put the grommets on the ends of the metal tubes, then work them down into the bores, listening for a click or a snapped-in feel (neither of which I noticed the first time btw). I thought I'd do it this way this next time. I think putting the grommets in the bores first, is harder on the rubber grommets, as you sort of have to wiggle the tubes in while pressing downward, and the tubes flare. Good luck.

[fiacra]

I feel your pain. I've had the joy of replacing the MC twice on one of my 914s a few months back as I got a defective MC from one of our most popular vendors. I paid the extra to get an Ate MC the second go round. One of the most miserable jobs I've had to do on my cars. I really struggled seating the rubber plugs the first time, even tore one of them and had to order a new one, but what worked for me to get them seated was to lube them just a little bit with brake fluid, put a flare nut wrench over the top of the plug and then lever on it by using a much larger box wrench over the other end of that wrench. Popped it right in. I'll add my voice to the chorus about making sure you have the washers in place. They fit right into a recess in the MC so make sure they are properly seated. I would also say that not having the plugs seated should not have resulted in a vigorous leak. More like seepage. If you have a vigorous leak it is more likely to be from somewhere else, unless you really don't have the plugs in. Check all the brake line connections, make sure the lines from the MC are properly connected.

[East coaster]

This job was a close tie with putting the fresh air box in for worst/frustrating task on my project. I tore two sets of grommets before I finally got them in properly. I don’t know why they aren’t just threaded fittings with hose barb, that would’ve been so much easier/better.

[rick 918-S]

The easiest way I found is to remove the lines from the car, put in the washers and new grommets then reinstall with new rubber fittings where the lines pass through the body and new hoses. Very little fighting. Apply some caliper grease to the metal tube makes it a little easier also.

[VaccaRabite]

I would also say that not having the plugs seated should not have resulted in a vigorous leak. More like seepage. If you have a vigorous leak it is more likely to be from somewhere else, unless you really don't have the plugs in. Check all the brake line connections, make sure the lines from the MC are properly connected.

It was not a seepage.
It was a stream. Like the brake fluid was pouring out and emptied the reservoir within a few minutes.

I remember it being challenging when I did it 15 years ago. I'll have to try and reseat them tonight.

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

Found the issue. Brand new seal ripped when I was attempting to seat one of the lines. Could not tell what was going on until I took the MC back out of the car with the lines and put it on the bench.

So either I get new seals or suck it up and buy the ATE.
@uropartsman

Gas tank is totally full too. I think I’m going to have to empty it and tilt it up to snake the lines back up to the reservoir. I forgot how convoluted their trace was.

Damn. I thought I’d have this buttoned up tonight.

[Literati914]

You took the lines out while still attached to the MC? That in itself is a great feat! I thought about doing that until I realized how hard it was getting to their retaining screws at he reservoir - never mind not wanting to mess with the fuel tank at all (was trying to replace mine with as little intrusion as possible - which made things infinitely harder I’m sure).

I did this job this evening and managed to get the grommet seated from under the car, but im holding a grudge against Porsche for the MC set up. When I have to replace again, it’ll be with the AN fittings option!

[VaccaRabite]

Oh the lines were not hard to pull out from under the car. Though I did not pull them attached to the master. I detached and pulled them that way.

I clearly tore the one boot trying to seat under the car. I think I actually had the second one seated. The leak when I filled the red nearly emptied on to the ground as fast as I had poured it in.

Needless to say, not happy. I want to drive my car!

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

Texted with @eric_shea (PMB) over the weekend.
New boots will be inbound to me today if they have them.
This was totally my fault I think. I must have cut the boot with the res line trying to seat it. As it turns out, the way it tore there was no way for the line to set past the tear. a rubber flap went under the metal part of the line, blocking it from being able to seat. That is also why it vented all the fluid so fast, as the torn flap served as an exit ramp. It was the boot closest to the firewall and I just could not see it was torn, so I probably made it worse by continuing to wiggle and pull and twist and torque on the line to try and seat it. The damage was clear ones the lines and master were out of the car.

I have a long weekend this weekend, and I'm hoping the boots arrive before Friday so I can get this car back on the road! Weather is going to be PERFECT this weekend for some fall driving.

Zach

[MartyYeoman]

I've found it best to just remove the fuel tank while working on those lines.

[rick 918-S]

In the car installation is a 8 out of 10 in difficulty and the odds of a failed attempt are high. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Looks like you will get this tackled just in time to put the car away for the winter. Good luck on the next attempt.

[mepstein]

In the car installation is a 8 out of 10 in difficulty and the odds of a failed attempt are high. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Looks like you will get this tackled just in time to put the car away for the winter. Good luck on the next attempt.

It’s a pain but not terrible if the car is on the lift. Takes our guys 10-15 minutes to do.

Actually the weather around here is amazing 60’s -70’s and sunny. Leaves are tuning colors. Probably the nicest driving weather of the year.

[robkammer]

I feel your pain. When I began my brake rebuild challenge, I replaced the MC with a mis named: EZ MC. After a couple of years working to have brakes I could rely on, I pulled that MC out and replaced it with an ATE 19. Only then did I discover that the other MC was a Chinese knockoff of the ATE.
Best advice I can give is to have a second set of hands with you when you install the new MC and lines. A full tank with add to the challenge for sure . It might pay to drain it down to less than a half tank.
I was really smart, (that doesn't happen very often) to have saved the metal tubes that go into the MC. The EZ required cutting the factory lines and then used hose clamps.
PMB has the brake line kits on hand but those do not include the very hard to source metal tubes.
I will say that PMB has stood behind their calipers and rebuilds, but it's been a difficult three years getting to good brakes.
Cheers!

[Olympic 914]

Little trick I did when reinstalling the lines I taped string to the hoses before pulling the master cylinder out. Then after putting the lines into the master just pull the strings back up and attach to the reservoir.

No removing the tank

[VaccaRabite]

The new set of boots should arrive today. By tonight I should have functional brakes on my car again. Though I'm going to need to run out and get more Dot4 since most of that went onto my floor when the boots tore.

Doing assembly on my bench this time.

Zach

[Literati914]

Little trick I did when reinstalling the lines I taped string to the hoses before pulling the master cylinder out. Then after putting the lines into the master just pull the strings back up and attach to the reservoir.

No removing the tank

I gotta remember this one for next time, love simple and effective solutions!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

make sure that the stainless washers are installed, then ATE brand grommets and force the lines in and you will be all set

installed the mew master tonight. its been 15 years or more since I last did this, and I thought I had everything seated.

Filled the res with DOT4 and it all poured right down to the ground. I figure it HAS to be the lines from the res to the master not being seated. What's the magic to get them to seat? I've clearly forgotten.

Zach